Coaching Profile

Coaching experience and history

Neil Gresham is widely regarded as one of the world's leading voices in performance coaching for climbing. He has been coaching and writing regular training articles for national magazines since 1993 and has pioneered many of the methods that are used widely by coaches today. Neil is the current training columnist for UKC.com and Rock & Ice in the USA. He has also authored a book on training ('How to Climb - Training', published by Rock & Ice in 2017) and co-authored a further three books. Neil has delivered coaching courses and seminars all over the world and has helped hundreds of climbers of all ages and ability levels to raise their game. When coaching, he draws heavily on his vast bank of climbing experience, having put up hard new routes in a variety of styles in over fifteen different countries. He has climbed E11 trad, WI 9 on ice and in 2016 he climbed his first 8c+ at the age of 45 when he made the first ascent of Sabotage 8c+ at Malham Cove. Neil puts all his successes down to hard work, motivation and refinement of his game. He believes that work and family commitments don’t need to limit our climbing goals provided we are focused and make the best possible use of our training time.

To contact Neil directly, please email: neil@neilgresham.com

Coaching firsts and achievements

· Britain’s first regular training columnist for a national climbing magazine: ‘OTE’ 1993

· Britain’s first personalised training programme service since 1995.

· Britain’s first performance coaching holidays (Kalymnos & Fontainebleau) started in 2001 and run for 11 years.

· Pioneer of Britain’s first coaching qualification scheme ‘Masterclass Coaching Academy’ since 2004.

· Author of the popular instructional films on technique and training – ‘Masterclass’ Parts 1 & 2, 2006 - now a dedicated You-Tube Channel.

· Provider of coaching courses for the Alpine Guides Association in Kalymnos 2006 and further masterclass sessions for the Guides and AMI in 2008, 2011 and 2017.

· Coach to British junior champions: Leah Crane (1997-2001) Natalie Berry (2000-2002), Kitty Wallace (2003 – 2007), Aidan Roberts (2014-16). Training programmes for elite British senior climbers John Dunne, Gaz Parry and James Pearson.

Coaching 10 year old Hannah Toward at Malham with Steve McClure and Adam Ondra

Select testimonials

‘There is no doubt that in the UK, Neil is by far the most well known and respected rock climbing coach, with his reputation spreading across the borders and into Europe and America. He is the voice of all the UK coaches and the person we all look to for advice in developing our own coaching services.’

Steve McClure

Neil developed the format for the first performance sport climbing coaching holidays in Kalymnos and Fontainebleau in 2001 and he ran these successful courses annually for over a decade.

‘Neil is the most dedicated and passionate climbing coach I know and have worked with. His exemplary climbing achievements are also a result of true dedication and passion. He has a strong background in training principles and human physiology, and he knows how this applies to climbing performance. Neil strives to keep up to date with current research and coaching techniques. He is a perfectionist, and does not like cutting corners. As a sports physiotherapist, I trust Neil explicitly when referring patients to him. Neil knows how to focus on climbers and remind them of potential risks of injury. He takes each climber under his protective yet guiding wing. To have the chance to learn from Neil Gresham is a unique opportunity for all.’

Nina Tappin - Sports Physiotherapist

Natalie Berry, who Neil coached as a junior climber. Neil coached the first two youngest junior females to climb 8a (Leah Crane and Kitty Wallace) and has also coached four British junior champions (Natalie, Kitty, Leah and Aidan Roberts). — Natalie Berry, who Neil coached as a junior climber. Neil coached the first two youngest junior females to climb 8a (Leah Crane and Kitty Wallace) and has also coached four British junior champions (Natalie, Kitty, Leah and Aidan Roberts).

‘Neil's work over the last decade has really pushed the boundaries of climbing coaching, not only in the UK but also abroad. His charismatic energy is infectious and certainly a major factor ensuring his success in coaching.’

Natalie Berry - 8 times British champion, ranked 3rd in Europe & 4th in the world

‘My climbing life, professionally and personally, would not be where it is today if it were not for Neil’s input and guidance. I am sure many people (both clients and friends) would feel the same way. Neil knows everything there is to know about all elements of climbing in all disciplines. He is the leading authority on coaching in the UK and is the ultimate international ambassador for the sport.’

Leah Crane (British bouldering champion 2009, 2010 and 2017)

Neil tops out on his first 8b+/c, Welcome to Tijuana in Rodellar, Spain. Climbed at the age of 43, whilst living in London and with a young family. Proof that it can all be done if you're disciplined and make the most efficient use of your… — Neil tops out on his first 8b+/c, Welcome to Tijuana in Rodellar, Spain. Climbed at the age of 43, whilst living in London and with a young family. Proof that it can all be done if you're disciplined and make the most efficient use of your time.

‘Neil Gresham, has proved himself to be an exceptional coach and an inspirational individual. Neil is the consumate professional in his approach and delivery; well prepared and in absolute control of the coaching experience. His manner and method of delivery during his coaching sessions demonstrates his detailed knowledge of the skills involved in climbing and the skills required to motivate and teach youngsters. I recognise in Neil Gresham a unique balance of experience, expertise, professionalism, commitment and genuine enthusiasm for his subject and his coaching.’

Michael Stewart - Director. Interactive Design Institute

'I've never been one to preach from the touchline - my style of coaching has always been to get in amongst the action and lead by example. I don't think people want to be coached by someone who doesn't have an extensive track record and a deep-felt passion for the sport.'